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This page is intentionally left ___ ? (kitchen version)
part of the closing ceremony of 'This page is intentionally left ___?', exhibition by Yoonglai collective, Bangkok Kunshalle, Thailand, 2025
Drink station by Parichat Tanapiwattanakul,
at the former kitchen on the 5th floor of Bangkok Kunshalle
herbal spirit 'Mao Sae Tung'( family secret recipe), coldbrew jasmine and lemon tea, discarded fruit peels from uncle's fruit cart, homemade fruit liquor, Tepache syrup, glasses, menu paper
Echoing the exhibition ‘This page is intentionally left ___’, this participatory drink station reflects on what remains within a place, what fades, and what continues to live on. Beyond the building’s physical structure, its identity has been shaped by people, objects, and its surroundings: the street vendor’s rumours, the spirit who never grows old, and traces of the past embedded within its walls and so on.
Inspired by these narratives, each homemade drink and infused liquor is crafted from ingredients that were found around this area and have aged, fermented, and transformed over time, evoking the layered identity of the building itself. This station invites visitors to encounter these lingering presences through scent and taste, with each drink opening a pathway into intangible fragments of memory and stories that quietly endure within its walls.
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(A) Herbal Spirit Mao Sae Tung (Family Secret Recipe) shot is inspired by the neighbourhood surrounding Bangkok Kunsthalle (formerly an educational publishing house), where traditional herbal shops once defined the area’s identity and livelihood across generations. During on-site research, I encountered the third-generation owner of one such shop, founded in 1961. She began our conversation by asking if the former publishing house was still for sale, a question rooted in her childhood memory of witnessing the great fire that left the building vacant for many years.
As we spoke further, she shared how many herbal and dried-flower shops have disappeared, forced out by urbanisation as wooden houses succumbed to termites or gave way to restaurants and bars. Among the few traditions that remain is Ya Dong (herbal spirit), still preserved in her family’s practice. Their recipe, called Mao Sae Tung (เมาเซตุง), is a playful yet potent name: “Mao” means drunk, “Sae” means unable to walk straight, and “Tung” suggests heightened sexual vitality. Together, it conveys the qualities of the spirit itself. Though it echoes the name of the former Chinese Communist leader, the owner emphasised that its origin is entirely rooted in her family’s secret recipe, an inheritance that continues to endure, even as much else in the neighbourhood has faded away.
(B) Cold Brew Jasmine and Lemon Tea is inspired by the Chinese shrine (ตี่จู่เอี๊ย) on the first floor of the building, which has remained a permanent presence since the days when the publishing house was still in operation. A longtime worker shared that the offering was often a white tea, such as jasmine or green tea, for the ancestors who protect the space. Over time, other offerings also appeared, reflecting diverse beliefs within the building: red soda for Thai Buddhist traditions, or coffee connected to the café here.
Paired with the herbal spirit shot, this cold brew jasmine and lemon tea balances and softens the palate, moving from strong to gentle notes, while allowing the herbal layers to linger and harmonise.
